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Tired of small, flimsy tomato cages that get swallowed and crushed by your indeterminate tomato plants? Here’s how to make your own DIY tomato cages that are large, strong, and built to last.
How to make large, strong, and durable DIY tomato cages
There are innumerable varieties of perennial, biennial, and annual food crops that can be grown in an organic garden, but one variety that is nearly ubiquitous is the tomato.
Tomato plants come in a huge range of shapes and sizes. On one end of the spectrum: small dwarf determinate tomato varieties that are only a couple of feet high and set all of their fruit at once. On the opposite end: large indeterminate tomato varieties that continue producing fruit throughout the summer and in to fall in our growing region.
Mmm, a beautiful ‘Tlacolula Ribbed’ heirloom tomato. This is a large indeterminate variety that can grow to be over 8′ tall.
We like and grow tomato varieties of all sizes, from tiny to huge. However, if you’ve ever tried to grow a large indeterminate tomato plant inside the small, flimsy cages that you find at most garden centers, you know how difficult it can be.
Many indeterminate tomato varieties can easily grow to be over 6′ tall x 3′ across. So the standard 4′ tall x 1′ wide tomato cages at the nearby garden center just doesn’t cut it. It’s like trying to put children’s clothes on an NFL lineman!
Small, weak tomato cages can lead to increased plant diseases
Tomato cages that are too small to adequately support your plants aren’t just an aesthetic problem. They can cause tomato plants to flop over on the ground, or lead to leaves and branches that are stuffed too tightly inside the cage.
Both of these problems can increase the likelihood of plant damage or even foliar diseases that decrease fruit yields and shorten your tomato plants’ lifespans.
Also, many of the store bought tomato cages are so poorly made that they’re bent or broken after a single growing season. Surely, there’s got to be a better tomato cage solution out there, right?
Wouldn’t it be nice to have high-quality tomato cages that:
- look good,
- are as tall as your tomato plants,
- can support the weight of your tomato plants without breaking or getting crushed,
- could last for years.
Below, we’ll show you exactly how to make your own DIY tomato cages that will do all of the above!
Easily make your own DIY tomato cages
Finished DIY tomato cages made from concrete reinforcing wire. The cage on the left will be used for smaller plants like peppers, eggplants or determinate tomatoes. The cage on the right will be used for larger plants like indeterminate tomatoes, cucumbers, and pole beans.
Getting the right tomato cage material
The best material we’ve found to make durable, reusable, and attractive DIY tomato cages is concrete reinforcing wire. You might want to call around first, but you can almost always find concrete reinforcing wire at Lowes, Home Depot, and Tractor Supply.
Concrete reinforcing wire might come in silver-colored rolls, but we think it looks better in an edible landscape once it’s rusted and brown in color. This is especially true if you use mulch/wood chips to top-dress your garden beds since the rust-colored wire blends in with the mulch.
Note: This isn’t a problem once the tomato plants have matured and filled out the cage, because you can’t even see the cage at that point. However, it is a problem when your tomato plants are still young and much smaller than the cage they’re growing into.
Can you see the plant cages? They blend in very well with the surrounding mulch.
What size is best?
Our preference is the 72″ high rolls of concrete reinforcing wire. This will make finished DIY tomato cages that are just under 6′ tall. (The bottom few inches are below the soil surface as stabilizing spikes to hold the cages in place.)
DIY tomato cages: final cut sizes
Another nice thing about using concrete reinforcing wire, is that you can cut it to create finished cages of any height, circumference, or diameter you want. For instance, we use it to make:
- thin 6″ diameter trellises for spring peas,
- stocky 3′ tall pepper and eggplant cages,
- large 6′ tomato cages, and
- everything in between.
If you’re growing large indeterminate tomatoes, we recommend cages with the following MINIMUM dimensions (you can go larger):
- 5′ height
- 4′ circumference
- 16″ diameter
(Definitions: In case you don’t remember that day in math class, circumference = distance around a circle, and diameter is the distance across the circle through the center point.)
How long will these DIY tomato cages last?
It depends on your climate and how much abuse you heap on them. The tomato/plant cages shown in the photos above are now 10 years old (as of 2019)!
They get abused regularly, and live in a very humid/wet climate (southeastern US), but they’re as good as they day we made them. Eliza (who also works with GrowJourney) has some that she inherited from her grandfather, and they’re finally becoming unusable… 40 years after he made them!
6 Tips When Making Your Tomato Cages
1. Two people are better than one.
This DIY project will go a lot faster and be a lot easier with two people. Include a friend or a spouse.
Making tomato cages together also constitutes an exciting first date, especially if you talk about soil microbiology. Ha!
2. Wear thick gloves, protective eyewear, and other protective clothing as-needed.
You don’t want to cut or poke yourself. Ouch.
3. Use heavy duty wire cutters.
Concrete reinforcing wire is thick and strong – after all, that’s why it makes great tomato cages! You’ll need to use heavy duty wire cutters (like the ones pictured below) that will cut through the thick wire like butter.
Heavy duty wire cutters – a must when cutting concrete reinforcing wire.
4. Wrap cut end pieces back for vertical reinforcement.
Cut your vertical wire to allow for a piece to wrap back around the vertical frame. This gives your cages reinforcement all the way up the cage, which creates extra strength. (See below.)
*Safety note: if you’re worried about you or a young child poking their hand or arm on these wire points, you can stick a wine cork on the end.
5. Cut off the bottom vertical wire to make ground spikes (picture below), then reinforce.
We also recommend adding extra reinforcement by either:
a) For smaller cages/plants – Stick garden/landscape staples in the ground where your cages touch the ground.
b) For larger cages/plants – For larger cages where you plan to grow your biggest plants, you might also want to drive a rebar stake into the ground right next to your cage and attach it to your cage with wire or twine.
It’s no fun walking outside after a severe summer storm and seeing a pile of blown over cages and tomato plants – especially when you could have potentially prevented this up front by reinforcing your cages!
Here, I’m pointing out the bottom cut end of the DIY tomato cage that sticks into the ground. You’ll want to push it into the ground all the way to the first level of the cage to help give it stability.
6. Put your cages on sooner, not later.
Don’t make the mistake of waiting for your plants to be large enough to “need” a cage!
We put our cages in position over our plants when they’re still seedlings or recent transplants, then train their branches through the cage openings as they grow. If you wait too long to put on your cages, it’s very easy to snap branches and damage your plants!
Do you have to store your tomato cages over the winter?
Nope. We leave our tomato cages outdoor in our garden year round. No special winter storage needed.
Now get out there and grow some beautiful ‘maters!
We hope this gardening tip was helpful, and your huge tomato plants finally get the DIY tomato cages they deserve! If you have any questions, please ask away in the comments section below.
Additional Tomato Growing (and Using) Resources:
- How to graft heirloom tomatoes on to disease-resistant rootstock
- 5 tips to successfully grow tomatoes in pots or containers
- Top-5 reasons you keep killing your potted tomato plants
- GrowJourney’s complete guide to growing tomatoes
- 18 simple recipes to help you use up lots of tomatoes
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Those “heavy duty wire cutters” are more correctly known as “bolt cutters”. That is what you’d ask for at the hardware store.
Thanks for the tip!
Love your site. I’m a frustrated farmer in a condo in ca.
Lol, Kristi! Sounds like you need to find a community garden to scratch your itch. 🙂
Two years ago, I got tired of flimsy, expensive commercial tomato cages that weren’t big enough and weren’t sturdy enough. So, for a little over $100, I bought a roll of 6x6x10x10 remesh (6″ x 6″ squares, 10 openings wide, 10 gauge wire). I made my cages 6′ in circumference, which is just under 2′ in diameter. To hold them closed, I just use black UV-Resistant zip ties. I clip the zip ties and nest the cages for off-season storage. Instead of cutting the bottom wires to insert them into the ground, I just set my cages on the ground and secure them with 2′ wooden garden stakes driven about 18″ into the ground and use zip ties to tie the cages to the stakes. If the plants get really tall, I just zip tie another 2.5′ section on top.
This is my 3rd year of using them, and only 1 incident… Earlier this week, after a very heavy rain, one of the cages fell over… But, I just stood it back up, and added more stakes around it and the plant is still doing fine! (I think I might get some 4′ rebar stakes and drive them about 2 feet into the ground.) The one that fell over was in a new raised bed where the soil hasn’t compacted much yet, so it didn’t have much “holding power”. This cage had a 2.5′ extension on it, and the tomato plant has grown a 1.5′ beyond that, so it’s over 9 feet, and is my most prolific producer this year (it’s a Black Cherry tomato!)
Sounds like a great setup, Jim! Indeterminate tomato plants can get to be the size of small trees here in the southeast!
I dispense with the whole tomato cage premise and run fencing between T posts. I plant tomatoes on either side and tie them to the fencing with string. The next year, the same set up can be used as a bean trellis or for cucumbers. I use this for peppers and eggplants, too.
Yep, there’s no single right way to trellis a tomato plant (or any other plant). Since we intermix tomatoes and other edible plants into our front yard landscape, we find these cages to be a good solution. For gardeners growing rows of plants outside of a landscape setting, a more permanent trellis structure works great.
Best cages yet . Made out of cattle panels I bought at rural king. You get 4 out of a 20 dollar panel and last forever and don’t rust.
Absolutely! Some of our DIY tomato cages are well over a decade old now and still going strong.
Hi Aaron, i made the cages but my tomatoes grew higher than the cage. How do you handle that.
Thansk
Hi Nathan! Yes, we have that happen here too. We just let the plants cascade over the top of the cages. If you make the cages any taller, the plants + cages get to be really top heavy and are much more likely to blow over in a storm, even when anchored on the bottom.
I add a 2.5 foot extension to the top of my 5 foot cages, attached with black UV-resistant wire ties (aka: zip ties)
Also, I do now anchor my cages with 3 foot rebar stakes driven nearly 2 feet into the ground. They don’t budge since I started doing that! To remove the stakes at the end of the season, I remove the cage then clamp a pair of vise-grip pliers to the stake. Use the pliers as a handle to give the stake a few spins, and they then pull right out!
My father made the same tomatoes cages sixty years ago and I am still using them. GREAT.
Brenda in okla.
60 year old tomato cages! Holy cow – well done!
My FIL helped my hubby make some just like these before he passed in ’92 and they are still going strong!!
My FIL helped my hubby make these in ’92 and they are still going strong, except for a few prong at bottom rusted off.
Wow, amazing! Almost 30 years. Hopefully, ours last that long, too.
THANK YOU for all your tips! My neighbor and I are trying really hard to be “tomato queens” and we appreciate your detail.
Ha! You’re very welcome, Queen Jean. Best of luck to you and your neighbor on your tomato growing quest.
I recently moved to upstate SC from central NH and find the “red concrete” here almost impossible to plant anything. Built raised gardens, (5 now and 3 more coming) and love growing tomatoes. Found 9 cages at the recycle center but they were bent and broken, but worked so far. Your cement re-enforcing wire is a superb idea. I can also use it for my beans as I can burn the dead, dry vines off in the fall without damaging the wire. The visegrip on rebar tip (twisting and pulling from this red concrete) sounds like it might work. Thank you for these tips. I am also going to order from someone the green Italian greens asap. Happy gardening
Hi Rex! Welcome to the Upstate. Yes, we LOVE these plant/tomato cages. We cut them to varying sizes and shapes, and find they work beautifully for pretty much any plant, from vining annuals like beans to large indeterminate tomatoes. Our oldest DIY plant cages are over 10 years old now and still work perfectly. FYI you don’t really have to burn the bean vines off the cages at the end of the season. We cut the bean plants at the ground after first frost (leave those roots in to feed the soil), then store the cages outdoors over winter. By the time they’re ready for new bean plants in April, the old vines are like brittle paper and flake right off with a vigorous rubbing by a gloved hand. (Although it is fun to have an excuse to play with fire.) 😛 Happy gardening to you!
I have grown tomato plants that reached above 7 feet tall so I wanted to make something to be able to handle them.
I took a lot of what you describe here, with a few other how-to ideas and came up with my own way to make 72″ . Start with 42″ x 84″ sheets of 6″ x 6″ mesh. Along the short end, I cut the first two cross wires to give 12″ in the ground stability and 72″ remaining height. 48″ is the desired circumference, so after bending every segment of the shorter wires, I got it to about an 18″ gap. I bought a 100ft roll of 12gage galvanized steel wire, cut into 12″ segments, the using about 1.5″ on each end to join the two ends almost round. Those I did at what would be the ground level, then every other cross wire at 12″ increments. I can easily add some of the ones I skipped if the need arises.
Placing into the ground, takes a lot of patient tapping with a hammer just firm enough around the circle to eventually get them all 12 inches deep. I left in place the small pieces left from the cuts I made, which did make driving them into the ground a little more difficult, but will provide more stability.
Other do-it-yourself ideas include using concrete rebar driven deep and strapped to the cages to make them fully weather proof. I found 36″ steel stakes 1/2″ diameter with holes for fastening to whatever. I used the about 5″ segments of waste wire to attach the cages to two of these stakes. My contraption isn’t the most attractive, but I figure, there’s no entry at the county fair for tomato cages. I made six of these in two days and have three of them fully set in place.
First look out a window at them, a bird was perched on one. so they are being accepted.